sb4pro
Mod Class Racer
Posts: 80
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Post by sb4pro on Nov 6, 2008 16:11:57 GMT -5
just got my ttr and OMG it totally kicks ass as soon as i get my electronics installed and get a digital camera ill try to post some pics in the mean time visit the home site at www.thundertechracing.com |
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Post by ajhobbs5 on Nov 9, 2008 15:35:35 GMT -5
You actually recieved your truck. I have been waiting for months to get mine. Its good to know that TT have finally started to ship them.
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Post by Rob #28 on Nov 9, 2008 20:36:21 GMT -5
I got a call today on mine. They are hand building them and sending them out right now because the instruction manuals still are not done yet.
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sb4pro
Mod Class Racer
Posts: 80
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Post by sb4pro on Nov 10, 2008 12:11:28 GMT -5
im in the process of installing the electronics right now im gonna run a team orion 21 turn motor with a smc 4600 nimh 6 cell pack
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sb4pro
Mod Class Racer
Posts: 80
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Post by sb4pro on Nov 10, 2008 16:12:15 GMT -5
hey all heres the pic i promised just ran the truck and its all we dreamed it would be FRICKEN AWESOME . I didnt paint the truck yet cause i wanted to post the pic asap but plan on doing a rockstar energy drink paint scheme  |
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Post by Steve on Nov 10, 2008 17:58:11 GMT -5
Sweet!
Looking forward to hearing some reviews on how the truck drives.
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sb4pro
Mod Class Racer
Posts: 80
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Post by sb4pro on Nov 12, 2008 12:44:32 GMT -5
Hey all
Here are some notes and tips I found work great for the truck
1- To fix cracks in the body I used LOCTITE SUMO glue . It says its for wood but it worked great on the plastic . Best of all its paintable and sandable
2- Since I use 6 cell packs I put a 1/4 inch of foam block on each side of the cage and attached it with double sided carpet tape
3- For the motor I'm using a TEAM ORION 21 turn using a 17 tooth pinion mated to the stock 84 tooth 48 pitch spur gear
4- For tires in the rear I bought some RC4WD PROWLER XSs . The stock tires worked just fine the PROWLERS are just a little softer compound
5- Suspension was left stock
All of these settings were tested on the local high school baseball field which has dirt from home plate all the way back around to home again . For jumps I used wooden ramps that are 24 inches wide 8 inches high and have a 45 degree pitch angle . These are the same type ramps used in the NR/CTPA tuff truck races that i compete in
Please keep in mind these set ups are suggestions only and may/may not work for you . Most of all just go out and have fun with the truck and experiment with setups you might like like too
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Post by xredge on Nov 14, 2008 8:34:30 GMT -5
1- To fix cracks in the body I used LOCTITE SUMO glue . It says its for wood but it worked great on the plastic . Best of all its paintable and sandable The body is cracked!  I hope they fix the quality on the body, for the price I wouldn't be to happy about it. I'm thinking about one in the spring as they are cool, but also depends on some other factors. |
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sb4pro
Mod Class Racer
Posts: 80
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Post by sb4pro on Nov 14, 2008 13:07:21 GMT -5
the body cracking is part of the whole scale appeal if youve ever seen a real CORR race youll see that most of the trucks end the race with lots of body parts missing this plastic is soft enough to just repair and bash it again heres a pic of the truck with the repaired a piller can you find the repair ?  |
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Post by R/CRacer4Life on Nov 14, 2008 13:21:52 GMT -5
Sorry, but that is too cheap. I don't care if it is part of the real deal, I want my truck body not to crack or anything like that of the real thing.
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Post by Rob #28 on Nov 14, 2008 22:14:35 GMT -5
Yeah... I am kinda on the fence on the body part. I do think its cool that like the real ones the body will break apart in crashes, but we crash a lot more the the real ones do, and painting/decaling bodies is going to get old quick...
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Post by xredge on Nov 15, 2008 11:17:34 GMT -5
So let me see if I can figure out read between the lines here on this are all of the cracks along the typical seperate body lines like on a real truck and not molded smooth like the typical RC?
I'll throw out an example for understanding. On a real truck the front fenders are seperate from the hood and cab and then the bed is seperate from the cab. So on this truck is this where the cracks are to resemble these bodylines? Or are the cracks elsewhere. I can understand more if they flow along bodylines.
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Post by igotbannedfromtrx on Nov 16, 2008 6:03:15 GMT -5
teams spend like 5k on bodys each weekend i dont want the real deal
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sb4pro
Mod Class Racer
Posts: 80
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Post by sb4pro on Nov 17, 2008 6:57:09 GMT -5
Most of cracks have been on the a-pillar , the roof line along the area where the windshield would be , and front grill area where the light decals are. Since ive used the sumo glue i mentioned i havent had any cracks. Also I have made darren aware of the problem and he said that replacement bodies are going to be VERY cheap $30.00 for a PAIR .
Rob28 have you had any problems ?
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Post by xredge on Nov 17, 2008 15:59:20 GMT -5
I'll take a look at Rob's this week as long as it is at the shop and see. If you watch the CORRTrucks the body parts that are falling off is always the rear fenders and then the front. I have never seen a truck break apart at the roof line unless it rolled. A could be cool feature is like I said about the fenders coming off but also being able to reattach them again (maybe something like velcro) now that would be cool. Redoing the whole body and all the painting to me would get old. Plus all the races I've been in and practing you are always seeing the Slashes banging up against one another. In this case you might need a body for each round. |
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I hope they fix the quality on the body, for the price I wouldn't be to happy about it.