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Post by lenman73 on Jan 5, 2009 15:46:59 GMT -5
I only had a problem with the side that didn't have the screw so I drilled a 1/16" whole up vertically on the side without the screw and ran a copper wire tie through the whole and tied it off. Done in less than a minute.
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Post by James#17 on Jan 7, 2009 19:50:41 GMT -5
I think the best mod so far was the hinge pin one. Before when I would push the truck all the way down it would stay about 1/3 of the way down. Now it rebounds all the way back up to the top. Hope it improves the handling.
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Post by jason23 on Jan 11, 2009 4:10:59 GMT -5
I tried the hinge pins mods and my suspension still dont rebound so much ... maybe need to get bigger drill bit ? I used 1/8 .. into the hole on the a-arms only not into the one of the tranny case...
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Post by James#17 on Jan 12, 2009 14:32:09 GMT -5
Just completed another mod today. Seems to have a decent effect on the temp of the batts and motor.
I removed the bullet connections from the ESC wire. Then I took my soldiering iron and removed the wires from the motor.
I then took the ESC and turned it 180 degree's so the wires would reach the motor with no problem. I did not route the wires through the shock tower like from the factory. I had to run it between the shock tower and the shock itself.
There is alot of electrical resistance in the bullet connectors and since I removed them the motor temps seem to have droped quite a bit.
I will post up some pictures here soon. It also cleans up the chassis from all of that extra wire
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Post by James#17 on Jan 12, 2009 15:25:35 GMT -5
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Post by foxracin on Jan 12, 2009 21:19:49 GMT -5
I put Deans connectors on mine for the motor. Works jsut as good and makes motor changes a snap. Just a idea.
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Post by lenman73 on Jan 13, 2009 16:37:20 GMT -5
+1 ^^^^^^^
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Post by James#17 on Jan 14, 2009 8:56:03 GMT -5
Yes the Deans Connectors would be a excellent choice. I chose to make the wires as short as possible. That way the resistance is just that much smaller.
I think I may have to put the bullet connectors back on for my spec class anyway.
But the rules does not say I can not soldier the bullet connectors together. Using silver soldier the resistance would be just as low.
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Post by lenman73 on Jan 14, 2009 12:19:30 GMT -5
You should be fine with what you did I would think. I never heard of requiring worthless ass bullet connectors for a spec class, but some where a track might be that anal.
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Post by James#17 on Jan 14, 2009 18:09:43 GMT -5
Here is a idea I read the other day. It makes too much sense.
When you buy a new pair of shoes it has a pack of Siclla gel in there to trap humidity.
put the gel pack into your receiver box and it helps keep your receiver nice and dry from the humidity.
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Post by airwoods on Jan 21, 2009 15:59:31 GMT -5
awesome tip james.Just finished doing this to my slash and is much smoother now.
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Post by dev1ant #57 on Jan 21, 2009 23:06:45 GMT -5
Here is a idea I read the other day. It makes too much sense.
When you buy a new pair of shoes it has a pack of Siclla gel in there to trap humidity.
put the gel pack into your receiver box and it helps keep your receiver nice and dry from the humidity.
Brilliant, never even crossed my mind. I am gonna run duel silca packs.
Thanx for the tips, they all help and I will post if I come up with any good ones.
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Post by theycallmejam on Jan 29, 2009 17:44:24 GMT -5
I tried the hinge pins mods and my suspension still dont rebound so much ... maybe need to get bigger drill bit ? I used 1/8 .. into the hole on the a-arms only not into the one of the tranny case... you have to keep at it, I used a 1/8 in drill bit, it was a little snug at first, but with a little presure around the holes, you can make it happen. what a differance. i cant wait to race it now |
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Post by specslashracer on Feb 11, 2009 0:10:08 GMT -5
heres one i use for street but would be good for a good grip track or maybe all tracks to help keep the truck a bit lower to help with less rollovers.
first, take your shocks off. unscrew the bottoms off, open up the cap poor out the oil and push the steel part and valve out the top of the actual shock housing. slide a piece of fuel line or something that will fit around the steel shaft (i used 3 extra valves i had on each one) slide it over however much you want to lower the truck but not too much because it restricts how much absorption the truck has. then put you favorite oil back in and close it all up. there you have it 5mm lower! lol i use this for street since thats where i mostly play around and ive used it at a nice clay track and it worked nice. would be a good idea to pull out the seals and clean em and put em back in.
Also to make my springs stiffer and stiff have stock springs for spec class i took the springs and grabbed both ends a full coil in and pulled them until each was about an inch and a half longer then i smashed them back on the shocks it worked great. for best results try a little stretching at a time until you see what you like best.
thanks sorry for anything confusing its my first truck and i dont quite know the names of all the stuff yet but i am experienced with mechanics
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Post by bloateus on Feb 16, 2009 14:02:48 GMT -5
I race indoor carpet track, I found that you can mount a set of front tires on the rears and get about 3mm wider on each side. I also found that the proline body is heavier than stock about 3 to 4 ounces. Also use the water method to break the motors in I broke it 1hr at a time for 3 hrs and then ran dry for about 4 hrs, 1hr at a time (let cool) Also you can drill a small hole in the bottom of the motor to use a comm cleaner stick to clean the comm after each race I have notice a big difference in speed and torque over my stock ones. Also you need to balance your tires if you are serious about racing. The shorter the wires the better |
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